Telmo Rodriguez Gaba do Xil Mencia 2017 (90+ WA) (90+)
“It was hard to beat the superb 2016, but the 2017 Gaba do Xil Mencía was also perfumed and open, expressive, with a little more ripeness, with good volume and a little more density. This fermented and matured in stainless steel and was bottled without ever touching any oak to keep the fruit profile. But it’s more than fruit; it has the austere texture of the granite soils with an expressive finish.”
This bright red hails from Valdeorras (“Valley of Gold”) in eastern Galicia, a region once famous for gold-mining and now best known for its unique and complex wines made from the indigenous Godello and Mencia grapes. The wine is named for the river Sil that flows through the region (Xil is its ancient name, used by the Celtic people who once inhabited the area).
Rioja, Valdeorras, Toro, Spain
Telmo Rodriguez is one of Spain’s pioneer winemakers, advocating native grape varietals tied to the climates and conditions of their sites, and making world-class wines from undiscovered as well as known regions. While Telmo makes rare and limited wines of astonishing character and quality, his everyday wines have been equally praised, and widely recognized for the tremendous value they offer.