Petrolo Bòggina B 2017 (97 JS)
“The 2017 vintage of Luca Sanjust’s Bòggina Bianco one again makes the case that this is one of the best whites of Tuscany. The complex perfumes of white pepper, chalk, flint, pear tart, green apples, white chocolate and smoke are stunning. Then comes an incredibly linear texture that’s so vertical it could cut your mouth in two. Cutting, sweeping acidity makes an indent in the palate, which it expertly fills with praline, almond and nutmeg undertones. Full-bodied and very, very long on the finish with a well-judged play between oxidation and reduction.”
Bòggina B is a little bit of Burgundy with a Tuscan twist. The wine is made with 100% Trebbiano Toscano. The clone of the Valdarno has been known for its quality since the 1300s, when it was regularly sent to the popes in Rome and the courts of Florence. Petrolo has been using Trebbiano grapes for its sweet vinsanto for decades, but owner Luca Sanjust decided that the time had come for a tribute to the great whites of Valdarno’s past. The wine is made under the guidance of one of Burgundy’s greats, Mounir Souma of Lucien Le Moine.
Val d'Arno di Sopra, Tuscany. Italy
Petrolo is the definition of a cult winery, with an owner and a story that have helped create its legendary status. While the estate's benchmark wine, the Merlot cru Galatrona, deservedly receives fireworks in the press and is part of the history of Tuscany’s quality revolution in the late 1980s and 1990s, the winery's two other standouts, Torrione and Boggina, are an equally thrilling success - Sangiovese from a special and virtually unknown appellation bordering Chianti Classico that today produces wines of distinct regional identity.